A donkey jacket is a medium-length workwear jacket, typically made of unlined black or dark blue thick Melton fabric, with the shoulders back and front reinforced and protected from rain with leather or PVC panels.
Originating in the United Kingdom, the garment is untailored at the waist such that it hangs down straight from the shoulders. The front vertical edges fall straight and are squared-off at the bottom edge which is also straight horizontally with no vent at the back. In length it reaches below the crotch area. It has no and is closed by four to five buttons at the front that fasten tightly up to the neck with a broad and stiff turn-up collar, allowing the wearer to protect the neck from wind, cold and wet weather. It is thus well suited to outdoors work in demanding conditions.
Origins
In 1888 George Key opened up his own shop above his father John Key's first-floor draper shop on Lower Brook Street in
Rugeley. That same year, Key designed a new type of coat made of a hard-wearing material developed for those who were working on the construction of the Manchester Ship Canal. Some of the
navvies worked on
steam donkey (a steam-powered winch or logging engine), providing the inspiration for the name of George Key's new coat: the donkey jacket.
Design
The donkey jacket is derived from the wool
sack coat worn by workers in the 19th century, and the
Oxford English Dictionary references the term as first used in 1929: "one with leather shoulders and back".
["donkey". The Oxford English Dictionary. Second Edition, 1989. OED Online. Oxford University Press. Retrieved 9 November 2009.] The jacket usually has two capacious side pockets, and sometimes an inside "poacher's pocket".
Later versions replaced the leather with a PVC panel covering the shoulder-blade areas. This could be fluorescent orange or yellow and is sometimes branded with the name of the company which supplied the jacket, or the name of the company for which the wearer worked.
Social significance
The donkey jacket is regarded as typical of the British manual labourer and trade unionist as well as members of the political left. It is also favoured by traditionalist
, Rockabillys and
.
[TradSkin.Org, (1999), , . Retrieved 28 June 2007.][Marshall, George (1991). Spirit of '69 - A Skinhead Bible. Dunoon, Scotland: S.T. Publishing. ] Former British Labour Party leader
Michael Foot was criticised for wearing what was described incorrectly
as a "donkey jacket" at a
Remembrance Day wreath-laying ceremony
and he was shown wearing one on several covers of the satirical magazine
Private Eye. Foot's office insisted it was actually a "very expensive short overcoat" chosen by his wife, from
Harrods.
